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Bust Decrease Pattern Alteration

Bustline Decrease Pattern AlterationIf you happen to be small busted, you sort of get used to being overlooked by the fashion world.  This is true for ready-made clothes and also for commercial patterns.  Most commercial patterns are created for those who wear a b-cup, so if you happen to be smaller than that, you'll find that things don't always fit perfectly in the bustline.  Instead of doing alterations after making the garment, we'll show you how to go ahead and alter the bodice pattern piece so that it should work a little better for you.  By using the pivot method, I'll show you a fast and easy way to alter your commercial patterns in order to decrease the bustline.  I really like using the pivot method for SBA (or small bust adjustments) because the integrity of the pattern is maintained and that means less of a chance that there will be a mistake.

As with all pattern alterations, it's a good idea to do a muslin (or test fabric) sample before trying it on more expensive fabric.  That way there will be no surprise to the fit and you can tweak your alterations until your happy.  Hopefully, this will save you some frustration and us small busted girls can feel a little more freedom in using more commercial patterns.


Categories:  Basic Video   |   intro to patterns   |   Professor Pincushion Posts   |   Videos

8 thoughts on “Bust Decrease Pattern Alteration

  1. ProfessorPincushion

    It shouldn’t affect the pleats if they’re going vertical down the bodice and you’re not decreasing by a great deal. The decrease is just shaving a bit off the side seam area so chances you’re fine and won’t have to worry about them. 🙂

  2. Fran

    Can you use the pivot method for a bodice with pleats and will there be differences?

  3. ProfessorPincushion

    Because there’s such a difference between sizes, if I were you, I would do the bodice in the size 6. That way the shoulder area will fit better and increase the waist to fit the size 12. If the skirt is a different pattern, you can still cut that out in the size 12 so it’ll fit the waist after the alteration.

  4. gaffyus

    How would you do this for a princess cut body pattern? I am a size 6 in the bust and 12 everywhere else and I don’t know how to deal with the 2 separate front body pieces.

  5. ElizabethQ

    Thanks for the video! I find that sometimes the back of my dress gaps or the shoulders strap area of the bodice is baggy. Any suggestions? I have a narrow back but my bust measure 36 inches, that is probably the issue. I am 5’2. Thanks

  6. ProfessorPincushion

    For these examples, I would just pivot from the waistline to increase or decrease the bustline area.

  7. Ali

    what about for bodices with no shoulder seam, e.g. strapless? is there a different method for decreasing bust?

  8. margiesue

    This video information is very valuable to me! For years I just accepted the loose fit of commercial patterns, but now I can have a custom fit! I am SEW HAPPY!!!

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