Simplicity Pattern 3688

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

My daughter has grown an affinity for the Simplicity Retro series and I am a single father who has learned to sew through the internet and I have done well making my daughter several skirts and shirts. However for this pattern 3688 I the coat is a bit challenging in particular the collar. My daughter seems to be drawn to wearing the coat but i need guidance on this collar piece, any assistance would be appreciated especially in video format, best way I learn new skill sets.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

I’m so sorry in the delay in response. My computer died last week and I finally just got a new one and now I’m in the process of getting caught up. First, you are such an awesome dad! Second, many people contact me about a certain pattern step they’re stuck at and then I need them to email me a picture so I can see it and it can be a long process. BUT, you’re in luck because I actually just purchased this pattern myself! 😀 What step are you on and I’ll take a look at it and see if I can help walk you through it.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Thank you for responding i was surfing your other youtube videos to see if I could get something similar to help me visually with my current project. At any rate, the Simplicity 3688 pattern I have gotten stuck at section “D Jacket” step 11 I just can not seem to find a comfort with placement and sewing this together.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

It always amazes me in how much they cram into one step. Ok, so I’m going to assume you’ve already attached your interfacing to the collar piece.

We’ll take it one part at a time: “clip garment neck edge to stitching along curves and to small dots at inner corner.” All your fabric pieces should have dots on them transferred from the pattern. On the neckline of the jacket only (so not the collar), you’re going to cut slits into the seam allowance. If there’s a stay stitch on the neckline, just be careful you don’t cut any of those stitches. You’re just doing this to open up seamline to make it easier for pinning the neckline and collar together. I’d do it every half inch or so on the curved area and especially at the small dot at the corner.

Next part is pinning the collar and neckline of the jacket together. These should be place right sides together you really just have to worry about matching up all your dots between the collar and the neckline. so small dots go with small dots, the large dot with the large dot and notches together. I’d pin the major areas first like the notches and dots and then pin everything else in between.

Stitch between large dots. Start at one large do and sew a regular length straight stitch at your 5/8″ seam allowance until you get at the other large dot. You’ll have to pivot at the small dot at the corner. When you get to this dot, put the machine needle into the fabric, lift the foot, and rotate the fabric in the next direction. Then you can put the foot back down and continue sewing until the next pivot point. If you’re really concerned that your placement of the collar might not be right, instead of doing a regular straight stitch, make this a basting stitch so you can inspect it. If you don’t like it, it’s easier to remove the basting stitch and try again. If you do like it, just stitch your regular stitch over the basting stitch.

Clip front to large dot. You’re cutting another slit in the seam allowance at the large dots. (Again, be careful not to cut so far that you cut your stitches.) It looks like you’re doing this to the seam allowance of the jacket only and not the collar.

Trim seam, clip curves, press seam open between large dots. Ok, now to the full seam allowance (both collar and jacket) you’re going to trim it so the seam allowance is about 1/4″. for the curved area of the collar, cut inverted notches so that this seam line will lay flatter and not get bunched up. And then just press the seam allowance open.

This whole process will be repeated for the lining at step 21. So if you master it, then it should be a breeze when you get to that step. And just try to take it one section at a time. I know I sometimes get frustrated and overwhelmed if I try to understand everything at once. And sometimes you just have to jump right in and take a chance. You can do it!

I hope this helps! Let me know how it goes! 🙂

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