How to do these darts (pleats?) – Vintage Lutterloh

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hello!

I found my way here because I’m in need of help!

See attached pictures, I’m attempting a vintage lutterloh for the first time. I thought I knew enough about sewing to work my way through the jigsaw but I’ve hit some major snags.

First, not sure how to sew the dart/pleat (circled) in the shirt front. Is it just gathered at the top? My test doesn’t seem to achieve the same look if that’s what it is (noted that maybe it needs to be cut larger in the top for me (although it was done to my measurements)).

Second, not sure how to get the skirt front pocket/pleat as shown in the illustration.

Third (!), skirt back has a panel shaded out, is this supposed to be a pleat of some kind? Illustration doesn’t show the back.

Yes, I’m asking a question on almost every single piece.

Failing answers, can anyone recommend good books for learning vintage sewing techniques (aside from Gertie). This project may require some research!

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

wow! super cute design. It doesn’t come with any written instructions? I don’t know if this helps but I think you usually fold along the line of the pleat on the large dot and bring that folded edge to the smaller dot. When I’ve done pleats before, I was always doing it on the right side. The one made up of several dots might be several folds layered on top of each other but without directions, I’m just guessing. I would also assume that the shaded part on the skirt also eventually becomes a pleat since they’re using the same symbol design. You picked a challenging one! Please let me know how it works out for you. sorry, I couldn’t be more helpful.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hi Alia,
The item you circled is defenitely a pleat that you make by joining the two circles. Fold the left line and line it up to the line on the right and baste.
The shaded area on the back of the skirt looks to me it is to make an inverted pleat at the back. I would sew the back seam to the mark above the hemline and then sew another seam on the line outside the shaded area. Once that is done, pin or baste the 2 seams together and press forming an inverted pleat. You will have to tuck it at the bottom
The other shaded area I can´t really say but it probably would work the same way by joining the circles. Hope this helps.

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