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Crotch

Crotch

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  • #38081
    the_professors_assistant
    Keymaster

    I am 4 inches shorter in front crotch than in back. I drafted my pattern by these measurements but now I can not figure out how to match the seams for sewing. Help?

    #38082
    the_professors_assistant
    Keymaster

    hmmm….I do understand your frustration. For small differences, like an inch or so, you can normally ease your seams together and make it work, but the issue is that 4″ is a pretty big difference, and if the inner and outer leg seam are already the perfect length, you don’t really want to adjust those. I don’t know if you’re lengthening the back crotch length, or shortening the front crotch length, but I’ll use the former as an example because if there’s a front zipper of some kind, I don’t want to mess with that. Normally, what I’d suggest for your situation is drawing the pants outline of the back pattern. An the top of the crotch line, draw the crotch line, up 4″, and blend this point towards the existing side seam/hip curve, shaping a new waistline. But with 4″, I’m afraid the pattern will get a bit distorted looking. So I’m going to get creative and suggest something else. For the back, you’ll still go up 4″ for the back crotch line, like my original suggestion, but also extend the side seam up 2″. This will lengthen the side seam length of the pants 2″, which probably means you need to do some “extra” hemming in that area but now when you blend an new waistline from top of new crotch line and top of new side seam, it shouldn’t look as uneven. This also means that you should extend the side seam of the front pants pattern to the current crotch line. This is so the new side seams, of front and back will match each other. Definitely make your muslin first to see if this works out better. Hope this wasn’t too confusing.

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