Question on pivoting for bust increase

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

hi,

I am working on a pattern with a bust and waist dart. I need to increase the bust 6 inches and the waist 8 inches.

I pivoted the bust 1″ and slid out another .5 inch. Then did the waist pivot of 2 inches. I then put the pattern back to the original cutting line, but I noticed that the mid point of the dart at the side seam was raised about 1/2 inch so the dart doesn’t quite line up. I think it has to do with the waist pivoting out; it moves that dart point at the side seam up a bit. Now not quite sure how to trace the dart. Should I trace it higher, or trace it as is on the original. However I will have to true the side seam if I trace the original.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Just to clarify–

I have my original pattern on top and my tracing under it. After my adjustments I moved the original pattern back to the original tracing line and can see my new cutting line I drew in with dotted lines. I now need to extend the bust dart legs to the new side seam, but the mid-point of the dart that jutts out at the side seam is now about 1/2 inch higher on the tracing paper, so the legs won’t line up with the original pattern. It’s like the pivoting has raised the bust point.

Also with that much pivoting there is a fairly large gap at the side waist point where I need to extend the side seam down and the hem line over by “just eyeballing it”. So I am not sure if I am doing that correctly.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

You can definitely keep the dart in it’s original position, if you want. Put your pattern under the copy and just retrace to where it should be. You may have to reshape your side seam and dart though. If you want to see me do an example of shaping a dart, click here: http://youtu.be/tCEs0SMyzDc?t=13m4s The point is to have a smooth side seam once the dart is closed. Because you increased it by quite a bit, there couldn’t have been a little distorting as far as the dart is concerned so I definitely recommend making a muslin to make sure the dart placement will still work for you and it’ll also test your waistline area as well. There’s nothing wrong with eyeballing something. As long as you make your muslin, you can always tweak the pattern until it’s a perfect fit.

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