Increasing the Crotch – Problems

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hello professor,

I am currently trying to adjust a pattern in the crotch area.
After watching your video carefully, I felt ready to do it. As my behind is quiet big, I put most of the measurement on the back piece (as you suggested in the video).

Now I have a problem: The front and the back pattern won’t match up any longer. As soon as I place the crotch right about one another, the back part of the pattern is way too “long”. Still, whenever I adjust both the crotch and the tail line of the pieces, there is much fabric left at the back and I don’t know where to put it without causing the fabric to crumble.
FYI: I added +1cm at the front and +3,5cm at the back. I wonder if the difference between these adjustmens is just too big and that’s why it doesn’t work.

Would be glad if you could tell me what I am doing wrong.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Sorry about that issue. Yeah, if you’re going to do two separate measurements, it works best if there’s only a small difference and yours is too big of a difference. But, don’t worry, it can still be done. So in your case I would just do 1″ increase for front and back, like shown in the tutorial. Then take the back difference, 2.5″. On the back crotch curve, at the top (crotch curve/waistline intersection) extend up the crotch line up 2 1/2″. At the top of this new line, you’re going to gradually blend this towards the current waistline. Cut out your pattern and try it with a some cheap muslin and see if that works better. Hope that helps!

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